What Native Designers Lack Is Maturity.
Michael Kors
The latest report shows that the company's second quarter revenue rose 75% to 270 million 800 thousand U.S. dollars, and the company also expects third quarter revenue will reach 525 million ~5.35 billion.
Since the successful launch last year, the market performance of the American designer brand Michael Kors is probably overshadowed by the old European brands.
This means that under the strong attack of European fashion, the United States finally has its own designer fashion brand.
By contrast, Chinese designers seem to be struggling.
Although there are also local designers appearing in the fashion week, the proposition of "the rise of Chinese designers" still can not find the reason that the whole world is fully convinced.
Many people will first attribute the problem of Chinese designers to the short board of design, but this is not the whole truth.
President of UTA Fashion Management Group
Yang Da Jun
In an interview with the first financial daily at the China Fashion Federation industry forum, he said: "there are many creative and thinking designers in China. What they lack is maturity."
The chance?
6 years ago, in October, Xie Feng took his brand "Ji Fen" for the first time on the stage of the Paris fashion week in the name of Chinese designer brand.
Since then, Chinese designers are increasingly appearing in the four international fashion week.
However, although Chinese designers go abroad to the world, people have reservations about the evaluation of influence from Chinese design.
In Yang Dayun's view, the output of any brand can not be divorced from the image of the country.
"I think the first attribute of the brand is the state, so if everyone's impression of" made in China "stays at cheap and bad quality, a brand can't get rid of this impression. It is difficult and painful for enterprises and brands.
Yang explained this in an interview with this newspaper.
But in another way, with China's rising influence on the international stage and its efforts to pform the "made in China" pformation, Yang Dayun is optimistic about the opportunity of Chinese designers.
Not only that, "opportunity comes" is also reflected in the characteristics of the new generation of consumers, tolerance.
Yang noted that the first generation of consumers in China only paid attention to the price. The second generation of consumers only needed the brand that others knew. Now the new generation of consumers needed the lifestyle that the brand could bring. At this time, as long as designers calm down to understand the art, products and fashion through their works, the tolerance of consumers can provide them with many opportunities.
Lack maturity
In the face of opportunities, what is lacking in Chinese designers? Many people will first attribute the problem of Chinese designers to the short board of design, but this is not the whole truth.
"In recent years, Chinese designers are also growing rapidly," Yang said. "There are many creative and thinking designers in China. What they lack now is maturity."
Yang said that maturity is the ability to integrate Western elements and Chinese cultural elements perfectly, express them in their own unique way, and think about problems in an international perspective. They can think about problems based on customers, markets and brands, and bring benefits to the market, brands and consumers.
Such maturity must go through the experience and adaptation of the market.
"As a practical art, if fashion is not accepted by the market and consumers, then it will be futile to make further innovations."
Yang emphasized.
To sum up the exceptions and the successful local designer brands such as Jifen, Yang discovered their commonness, that is, learning and exploring in the market, and on the basis of retaining their original style, they have formed a judgement and effective adaptation to market maturity.
After completing the original accumulation, the designer will do better according to his own ideas and ideas.
In the future, designers who want to win the market will inevitably experience the process of familiarity with market demand, from being appreciated to finally being widely accepted by consumers.
In addition, it should have its own unique fashion personality, seek more subdivided market and maintain differentiation.
In Yang Dayun's view, Chinese designers are far from having the ability and pattern to create luxury goods with high fashion and high premium. It is more realistic and feasible to find personalized market segments.
What kind of training mechanism can help local designers quickly upgrade to maturity? Yang suggested that the government should increase the support of designers, and Japan began to make its own efforts in the 70s of last century.
Designer
Sent to France for further education; in addition, we should encourage designers to start their own businesses and train them in accordance with their train of thought. In the process, we need to create good investment, legal system and enterprise environment, and have special funds and channels to help designers. Finally, non-governmental organizations and institutions need to participate in training designers, make designers into brands, and let designers' intangible assets become an important part of brand assets.
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