Three Dimensional Clipping Lesson Plan Fourth Chapter "Collar'S Solid Cutting"

One

Construction

As the neck structure of the human body has a larger angle with the chest, from the functional point of view, it is decided that the shape of the collar should be separated from the garment body.

Careful observation of the shape of the neck is approximately cylindrical, slightly tilted forward, and has the feature of getting thicker from top to bottom.

Further observation will show that the central point of the posterior cervical root is higher than the center of the anterior cervical root. It will connect the two points to form a diagonal line with high and low front. It is not difficult to understand why the front collar is larger than the open collar.

Two stereoscopic cutting of standing collar

Standing collar is the most basic type of collar cutting, which is actually the form of the neck structure.

The procedures are as follows:

&nbsp1 take long =1/2 neck circumference +5 cm, width = width of +6 cm in warp direction fabric.

The center line is in line with the center line of the neckline behind the garment.

&nbsp2 will continue to install the rest of the fabric along the collar.

&nbsp3 marks the finished collar and trims the excess cloth.

Three dimensional cutting of lapel collar

The lapel is different from the collar only in the neck, and does not relate to the shoulder chest part, so the structure is correspondingly simple. The lapel has not only the collar part but also the lapel part, that is, the relationship between the collar and shoulder should be considered.

The procedures are as follows:

&nbsp1 take a length of =N/2+10 cm, width = design +5-8 cm skew fabric piece, draw out the centerline.

&nbsp2 compounded the center line with the center line of the back neckline, and then determined the collar shape according to the neckline.

&nbsp3 adjusts the shape of the lapel, then marks the collar with the pen, and makes the shape of the lapel with the identification strip.

&nbsp4 is removed from the stage and corrected on the plane.

Four stereo cutting of wave collar.

There are two ways to produce the wave collar: one is to measure the size of the neckline when the garment is finished, and then to cut out the circular arc shape sample on the plane. The ends of the arcs of the generals are opened and combined with the neckline of the clothes body to form the wave collar; another method is the direct cutting method, which is a typical three-dimensional cutting method.

&nbsp1 take out the square 45 degree skew fabric with length = width (= N/2+5) /2, cut it in the middle of the cloth, cut the length to be wide, make the base sample, fix the back collar of the base collar on the neckline behind the garment, and make the shear on the base collar according to the shape of the neckline.

&nbsp2 makes waves in the outside of the basic sample. When doing waves, one hand holds down the collar and the other hand holds the cloth to make waves, while making a cut at the neckline to eliminate the pulling force.

When &nbsp3 is half done, turn the wave to the front and observe whether the wave quantity is reasonable, so as to further modify it.

&nbsp4 continue to make the wave collar, pay attention to the coordination of all parts and keep the wave uniform.

&nbsp5 when the wave is completed, the shape of the wave collar is determined with the identification tape.

Five

Stereoscopic cutting

The difference between the lapel collar and the lapel is that the shoulder collar is connected with the collar to form a unique flip collar structure, and the pverse collar and the straight collar should be adjusted accordingly.

The procedures are as follows:

&nbsp1 take the length of =N/2+8 cm, width = Design of wide +5 cm skew gauze cloth, cut the depth 5 cm and width 8 cm at the back collar as the base sample, and install it on the neckline of the garment.

&nbsp2 turn the back collar fold line and observe whether it is smooth.

&nbsp3 uses the marking line to make the shape of the barge head of the garment body, and integrates the front end of the basic collar with the barge head.

&nbsp4 makes a mark on the base sample and makes an outline profile according to the marking line.

&nbsp5 cut out the cloth for completion.

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Six change collar type

The basic cutting method of the basic collar is introduced, and the operation procedure of the changing collar is also consistent with the basic type. The key lies in the determination of the yarn direction of the fabric according to the shape. First, the skew yarn should be selected for the performance of the vertical fold state, and the oblique yarn, such as the copper basin collar, should also be used for the lapel collar.